Monday, December 26, 2011

Back again


Apologies all around for our quiet over here. Much has happened since our last post and not all of it good. I suggested to a friend that we had had our run of bad luck in threes since our arrival and his quick response was to say that in Senegal you're not limited to three. After his wife gave him a swift (and probably painful) punch in the arm, he retracted his statement to say that we are now heading into good luck from here on out. Let us see. Humor is an important commodity here.

A short comment about our most recent bad luck. Our house was broken into and some of our small electronics were stolen - the camera, the laptop, our cell phones, an ipod and a small amount of cash (apparently our intruders didn't understand that the wife in the house might have all the cash and despite having gone through my purse, they missed the greater amount of grocery money that I keep. They took Carl's paltry cash instead. Hah). They came, they took, they left. We probably interupted them as we were gone for less than an hour. They likely scaled the back wall (and our neighbors guard saw nothing, humph, imagine that!). The house was locked so they busted open a security grate, broke a window and opened the back door. Many lessons learned on that one. We'll be able to replace our things later, our house has been reinforced, and we are wiser for the experience. Hate that. Interestingly enough, we think the peacock was trying to tell us there were intruders as he squawked a number of times before we left and we couldn't figure out what he was doing. Peacocks are territorial like geese and will get protective of what they consider their property (we learned that later, thank you very much). He gets extra corn from here on out.

Last week was spent minding the house and entertaining Matt as break started on the 16th. Hence, he had the one computer most of the time and internet was pretty spotty for us anyway. So it goes.



So, on to better news. Two weekends ago, we travelled to Lac Rose, the pink lake. It was definintely one of the best things we've done since we've been here. Remote, rustic, the friendliest people and none of the hustle and bustle of the city. We rode horses on the beach one day, four wheelers the next. The food was fabulous - a chicken tagine and fresh french bread for dinner. Fresh squeezed juice and fresh bread and jam for breakfast. Simple and lovely. We will go back.



Lac Rose has a small salt mining operation. The lake is pink during the dry season when the water is low and the sun is high. We saw the pink when we arrived. There is a high concentration of minerals that reflects through the water with the sunlight. Close up, it looks rusty.




The dunes we rode through are the same dunes where the Paris to Dakar Rally used to end. The race is no longer run because of the dangers north of here. I'm pretty sure Matt was thinking he was racing the rally over the dunes. It was exciting. We came over one dune and found a Touareg with his camels. Although I found the camels interesting, I found the herder more interesting. I typically identify the Touareg people by their azure blue robes and the particular turban they wear on their heads. I do not see them often, but they are a distinctive people, indigenous to the desert. They have a long history of a nomadic lifestyle, impacted greatly by development. I do hope to reach a point where I can ask people for their photograph, but I have a respect for these people and, even though it is quite obvious we're not from here, I still dislike the "tourist" aspect of some of our experiences.




Our Christmas was quiet. Although the country is 95% Muslim, Christmas is celebrated by many, Christian and Muslim alike. Everyone was dressed in their finest and the sounds of fireworks lasted long into the night. The Santa at the grocery store was a little bit creepy but Matthew didn't see him, so we're good. We opened gifts under our very first fake tree (imported from walmart), hung out at the soccer field for awhile with other families, and then had dinner with friends. As with the military, people tend to take care of each other, particularly in these faraway places, more so during the holidays. We are grateful to our new friends here in this community. There is much to be thankful for.

I understand people have had a hard time leaving messages on the blog. I have also been unable to respond to those comments that are left here, go figure. In any event, thank you for reading and following our adventures.

Happy New Year to everyone.

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Elections in West Africa

Hi Everybody, Carl here. It has been a bit since my last post, so here goes.

Senegal looks to conduct Presidential elections in February. This process serves as a shining example to other African nations as to how the process should work, mostly.

Recently, there have been several examples of poor election process such as in Cote Ivoire last summer and in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) in November. Cote Ivoire wasnt necesarily bad election process, it was more about a bad president who refused to accept the clear mandate of the elections and refused to leave office backing this with military power. Getting the picture? France (yea France) finaly went in, captured the guy and he is currently on trial in The Haugue for war crimes. Not a good example of democratic election process but ultimately a process that worked, somewhat.

The DRC, well now there is another kettle of fish. This is a huge country with untold natural resources, probably lots of oil that held an election a few weeks back. It is told that NGOs spent upwards of 700 million USD just to ensure the validity of the elections! Ok, lets start off with a 32 page ballot! Smelling like election fraud yet? They conducted the election and of course all of the 161 candidates are claiming victory! You have got to love it. The Catholic Church claims to have information on voting irregularities and the true winner but they refuse to release this information as it may start a civil war. A Civil war that has factions that support the major contenders and a military which will splinter to support multiple candidates. Holy Moley.

All of this makes the Senegalese elections seem tame in comparison. We have a sitting President who came into office and initiated term limits to 2 elections. He did this right after his first election so he contends that he has only been elected once since term limits were instituted so he is of the opinion that he can run again. The people of Senegal have said no. The President recently proclaimed his formal candidacy for his third election. Senegal law requires 50% of the popular vote to win an election. The President tried to write legislation tht would allow a win with only 25% support from a popular vote. Well, the people went nuts, rioted and he backed off.

Today there is a great deal of anxiety about the time between now and the next election. Parties proclaimed their candidates on 23 December. Riots because the President threw his hat in the ring as expected. The end of January is when the legislative council will rule on the legitamacy of the Presidents bid and campaigning may begin for all. Probably more rioting. Then the elections at the end of February will not produce a 50% popular vote for any one candidate and well you guessed it, probably more riots. A run off election will be forced in March if there is less than a 50% popular vote.

Laurie , Matt and I were driving home one afternoon when traffic came to a standstill. Matt started complaining that his eyes were burning and yes, there was rioting at a local university with CS gas thrown in healthy doses. A few days later, an opposition candidate for President was approached by a "band of thugs" and he responded with guns killing one (evidently on you tube), he is currently on trial for murder. Politics Africa style.....

Who knows what the future will bring? The good news is that Senegal will direct these elections for better or worse. The populace is generally peaceful and interested in change for the better of all. They want a better and more prosperous country and you can not blame them.

Anxious in the short term and hopeful for the long term.

All the best. Carl